Using Silicone Caulking to Make Molds
Jan 06, · Medical grade silicone is also kind of body safe silicone, skin-safe silicone, which can be used to make sex toys, sex doll, human penis, simulation mask, female vagina vibrator, reconstructive surgical procedures, breast pads, dental molding and so on. Create a patty shape with the mold putty, make it slightly larger than your charm. Press the charm into the mold putty. Don’t press too deeply. Very important. Use your fingers to gently push the mold putty up to the edges of the charm. Push it in snug to the charm, but don’t push the mold material over the charm.
But there are a few tricks that Moldx can share which make it a wee bit easier. Easy Mold and Amazing Mold Putty come in larger volumes. In cneap local craft store there are dozens upon dozens of interesting charms that are sold for jewelry making.
You can certainly use the charms for that purpose. But because the charms are often specific to an interest or hobby, they can be a great source of motifs or 3-D images that you can use in other ways with polymer clay. For instance. Halloween is coming and I wanted to make a spooky skull pendant. But I could easily find a charm to copy, mkae a mold, and then use the mold to create a polymer clay motif for a pendant.
Or maybe you have a neat jewelry charm that you want to replicate to make matching earrings. This technique is going to work best with a flat charm. If it lies flat on the table, this how-to will work. And please remember, unless you carved the image of the charm yourself, someone else owns the copyright, so please keep duplicated charms for personal use. That means you can easily remove the loop, though. Just take a pair of pliers or cutters and just bend the loop off.
It will usually snap cleanly, but if a jagged edge remains you can easily sand it off with some sandpaper. Or rub it on the sidewalk in front of your house. You can fill the mold with polymer clay, fondant, hot glue, UTEE, or even resin. Older molds, apparently, are fine. Other brands are similar, but please double-check the instructions to be sure exactly how hot you can bake the silicone mold.
Email is the best way to get updates You will LOVE getting this email, which is packed full of polymer clay goodness. About once a week. They both had a how to run internet cable through walls nice selection. Brenda Sue does a great job. Hi Ginger! I chfap so happy to have found your site and all of its useful information.
I do have a question about molds and would be grateful if you could lead me in the right direction. Loved this article and would like to make molds of my clay designs so I can quickly replicate them. You stated that polymer clay leaves a residue that prevents the mold putty from curing, is there something I can do silicons my clay model?
If the clay is already baked and painted with acrylic paint can it be used? Thank you! Yes, polymer clay can sometimes inhibit the cure of silicone mold putty. So use that and you should be good to go. I have a two part question. Will a jake of plexiglass work as a work surface for making the molds?
Thanks for all the yo information as Sliicone am a newby to mold making and do not want to waste the expensive mold material. Just need to make sure oxidized brass will not inhibit mold setting up correctly.
Thanks, Linda. You could also just try a tiny pea-sized amount and see if it cures completely. Acrylic and plexi-glass are the same thing. This is my second article of yours t read.
Great article! I was wondering what does craving licorice mean these molds would be able to do a sculpted Christmas ornament. Hhow molds are used for all sizes of creations.
Please give me some advice. The back of my molds fheap out nice and smooth but the imprinted side gets all these weird tiny craters all over like it bubbled or something. What are you zilicone a mold of? Some items can cause cure inhibition with some silicon mold putties. In molxs, I need more information…. Have you tried using Amazing mold rubber?
Can this method be used with a baked polymer clay creation opposed to a pre-existing charm? I would like to make duplicates of creations more quickly and effectively, not sure if this will work. Yes, Emily, you can. Thank you so much for this article. Very clever, actually. I was looking to learn siliclne to use charms to make my own for jewelry making. This is great. Hello Ginger, I want to make my own copper clay bases. I do not like to order bases from crafty story. Sometimes do not moldds size or shape which I need.
Because of that I decide to make my own bases with copper clay. Inside the bases Whats my wedding dress size put polymer clay and resin. This is my plan. I wont to have same bases, because of that I have plan to make silicone chaep from my bases.
Can I use silicone mold from that? Hi Maja, Yes, you can use silicone molds to make bezels. You could mold one of the ones you already silixone. Or you could purchase molds that work this way. Plus there are many Etsy sellers who have them, too.
Good luck! You also have to bake this mold maker as it does not set up without baking. The other great thing about this product is that if I have dry or too-stiff clay, I can add a touch and it softens the clay right up. I suggest adding literal pinches at a time until your clay is softened to your liking. Anyway, I love the tip of the si,icone or acrylic over it. Thanks for another great article, Ginger! I used it years ago and it certainly has its purpose. It is. I wonder why that is?
Quite often rubber will be colored I mean not pink-red rubber colored but it will still be rubber. Yet another great article from silivone, Ginger. Once again, thanks for sharing. I like using the small sheet pans because I can fit alot on one pan. No shiny spots either and always ready to go. Maybe I should have a compilation post sometime readers contribute their best tk. That would be fascinating. People are so darned creative. I like the idea of using sheet pans, too. How to care for wooden cooking spoons for this article.
I have made many molds using bought trinkets etc. I have used concrete sidewalk for sanding many times also for a texture on clay and have made a mold as well. I used to always put the charm down and then put the putty over the top. Thank you I have heard of one to but not sure which. You trick with the clear acrylic is as you say simple but so effective. I will definitly use it next time I mold something. Thank you for all you posts they are very very helpful and inspiring. All I need now is cheal time to experiment and play play play.
The level mold is for a reason! I will be using that factor in the upcoming projects that I mentioned. Would you know what else has the same effect as Yow Glos. Thank you so chwap for posting another terrific and helpful article.
Jul 19, · This easy mold material works great and is quite inexpensive!. You will need: pure silicone caulking like this (make sure it isn’t latex) 1 box of corn starch. rubber/latex gloves. a ‘non-precious’ bowl. vaseline (as a mold release) a ‘critter’ to use as the master form (or make your own) Since I have a weakness for birds, I was happy. Step 1: Materials. You really don't need all that much stuff to make a mold. - A part to make a mold of. - Mold Max 60 Rubber (available from Smooth-On), or any other RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) rubber. - A mold box (can be any watertight container that fits your part) - . May 28, - Hello! Here is a video tutorial showing you how I make my handmade silicone molds for resin and clay. I know there are plenty of different ways out there, bu.
Use clay and build a divider half way up and make the top of th mold. Then build a mother mold for the top. Flip it over, remoce the clay and make the bottom mold and mother mold. Make sure to add keys to the top and bottom so they line up when you are casting. If you are molding an actual sword, you may also want to add a rigid core to your cast. A cast that thin will be flexible and break easier than anyone would like for a prop or replica. This would be similar to the way a boffer has a rigid PVC or fiberglass core surrounded by foam.
It serves to strengthen the blade and keep it from drooping or deforming. Casting swords is, in general, a bad idea. As far as my experience has taught me, when you make a sword the blade will be thicker than that of a real sword unless it's a thick sword like a bastard or great sword. The thicker blade allows more stability and rigidity when you cast it. With an object as thin as a sword, even with a rigid core, the cast blade probably won't turn out the way you want. It will be so thin that it will deform under it's own weight.
As far as casting, I generally use fiberglass resin and matte that you can find at Home Depot or Lowes. It's more convenient than ordering resin online, but it's a pain to work with and pretty hazardous to your health. It's usually in the isle next to the spray paint and is normally found next to the caulk.
You could use fiberglass and resin to make a blade, but it would take a lot of care and work and might be a little costly. Alternatively, you could use the blade as a template and shape a wooden blade.
It would probably be thicker and pretty heavy, but if you get a hard wood you should be good. It really depends on what you need the sword for. If it's for a convention, check the rules of the convention as to what they allow. If it's for your own personal collection, save yourself some trouble and go to Home Depot and get some Aluminum or steel strips and JBweld those suckers together and make a metal blade.
But only if you don't want to take a real sword anywhere Also just an FYI, you may be new to this, but make your mold like it will make more than one cast. Even if you don't, breaking your mold intentionally is usually a bad idea. You usually end up making more work for yourself than if you took an extra hour making a good mold, plus if you destroy the mold and something happens to the first cast you are out of luck.
Besides, if you go in to making the mold with the mindset of multiples you will make a cleaner mold that will be easier to work with. Let me know if you have any other questions.
I would have probably went ahead and made a huge mistake by trying to cast it myself and raged about the crappy end result. Check and see if there are any local plastic suppliers.
There are thick plastics that you could buy and use to shape a sword out of, much like wood. Make sure it's rigid plastic, like acrylic or something. If you are unsure call and ask or go in and ask. You can take two pieces and bevel the edges and then glue them together to make the taper that a blade would have. That would be easier than trying to sand down to the middle of a single piece. It is possible to sand the center groove with a Dremel.
If you don't have one, get a wooden rod square rod will work best and cut a 45 degree angle on the tip. Then attach sandpaper to the tip and use that to sand the channel down the middle. Take your time with this sword, if you rush it won't look good. Is this mold flexible? For example if you have a fragile sculpture with many undercuts will the mold come off the sculpture with its flexibility?
Also if you have an unfired 3 dimensional clay head would this method work. And one last question can this mold cast plaster or cement? Thank you so much. I love this idea. This is a flexible mold, but be careful. You can still break whatever you are molding if you aren't careful during demold. Also, the thicker it gets, the less flexible it gets. As far as unfired clay, yes you can use this method on that. Use caution because this method can cause moisture to be absorbed into the sculpt.
With wet clay that can cause detail to wash away. Plaster or hydrostone for sure can be cast. Cement, probably. I say probably because I've never tried it and don't know, but I don't see any reason it shouldn't work. You repeat this until the whole sculptures covered.
Then you put one more layer after its dried. Would you recommend your method of dumping the silicone in the soap water, or the other method with the squirting and dabbing. Thank you. That way works too, but I prefer dipping the silicone in the soapy water first. I'm looking for an affordable way to make gloves for my costume. I was curious if I could put on latex gloves and pour silicone over my hands if I could make gloves like that will that work?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. You could do that, but I don't recommend it. Keep in mind that this is not meant to be used on human skin. There are chemicals in the caulk to prevent mold from growing which is not good for people.
Also the way this caulk cures, acetic acid evaporates and leaves the silicone. If you stick that on your body, your body will absorb all of that acetic acid. I would suggest making a mold from alginate and then a solid cast. You can then make a more rugged mold from the cast hand. Alginate is very weak and basically one time use. If you are set on applying it directly to your body which will not feel good if you have any hair look at higher grade skin latex or aquarium grade silicone caulk.
The silicone can stand heats up to the ballpark neighborhood of degrees F. That means you could cast low melt temp metals like pewter or lead don't cast lead, it's bad for you. If you are wanting to cast anything hotter than that shell out the money for higher quality silicone. If you are going to cast hot material do a small scale test though to make sure you get the results you want. I'm planning on making a silicone mold of a lawn jockey, around 4 feet tall.
Would this method work with a piece that large? It'll be a two piece mold with backing material. Do you have any experience with resin? I've always worked with clay in press molds and admit I'm a newbie with other materials.
For something that large I would go ahead and buy smooth on rebound It will save you money and will be easier to use. A solid casting that big is going to cost a lot and be hard to deal with. The size will be a problem though because it will be hard to slush cast something almost as big as a person.
You could open cast the two halves and bring them together with resin after you have the two halves. Thanks for the quick reply! I was considering casting the resin in two pieces and joining them as you said, as the resins are crazy expensive.
Thank you so much!!! I love this. You can use the resin that they sell in Home Depot or Lowes for repairing cars or boats. The only thing about the resin they sell is that it is nasty to work with.
It stinks and is meant to be used with fiberglass mat or cloth. It's cheap, but not so great to work with. You could go with something from Smooth-On. I'm trying to get started, and so I've been doing a lot of research on what I need to buy. However, almost none of the sites I've been to has what their original model is made out of.
One of my friends who does props for a living has told me that she uses clay for her original model and makes the mother mold from that. But I just want to make sure for certain that if I used clay and molded that, that it would be fine. The reason why I'm hoping to make the models out of clay is because I'm used to sculpting with clay and it's relatively expensive.